You can’t scroll through Instagram without seeing a post about dermaplaning, the latest way people are exfoliating their faces. Indeed, there are more than 1.2 million Insta posts tagged #dermaplaning, ranging from videos of the procedure to before and after photos.
But what exactly is dermaplaning? In short, it’s a procedure where a dermatologist or licensed aesthetician uses a blade to scrape dead skin off your face—and yes, it’s oddly satisfying to watch (check out the video below).
Proponents swear that—just like other forms of exfoliation—sloughing off dead skin cells makes their skin glow, unclogs pores, and fends off peach fuzz. But does the treatment actually work? Here, experts clear up all of your dermaplaning questions, including whether or not you should try it.
Dermaplaning is a short, in-office or spa procedure that’s kind of like getting your face shaved. It’s meant to exfoliate your skin and remove small, fine baby hairs (a.k.a. vellus hairs), so your face glows and feels softer.
“Dermaplaning uses a sharp No. 10 surgical blade [a larger, fatter surgical blade] held at a 45-degree angle to gently scrape the outer layer of the skin which consists of dull dead skin cells,” explains Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin, MD, a New York City-based dermatologist and founder of Entière Dermatology.
At the appointment, a doctor or aesthetician will gently pull your skin tightly and lightly glide the blade in an upward motion using delicate, feathering strokes, explains Alix J. Charles, M.D., a dermatologist based in Hinsdale, IL.
A dermaplaning treatment usually takes 10 to 20 minutes and can be done as a stand-alone option or as a part of a facial.
First, your skin will feel seriously smooth and look super even thanks to a solid exfoliation, says Dr. Levin. Still, this treatment isn’t exactly a wonder cure for your skin. While some experts are curious about whether or not dermaplaning could improve how well creams and serums are absorbed into the skin (which should, in turn, boost their benefits), its effect on product absorption isn’t 100% clear, says Dr. Levin.
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