When it comes to skin care, knowing which ingredients work best with your skin (and why) is key. But another equally important factor that you may sometimes forget to consider is when they should be applied. And we’re not just talking about mastering the art of layering different products and formulas for your daily skin care regimen (although that’s just as crucial too!). As it turns out, using certain ingredients at the wrong time could lead to even bigger problems, especially when exposed to the sun. Think dark spots, redness and irritation and even premature signs of aging. Yikes!
If you’re curious about which ingredients to look out for, we’ve got you covered. We turned to the experts to give us a rundown of skin care ingredients that you should skip during the day (and which ones you could use as substitutes). Follow along to find out if your go-to morning moisturizer should be saved for after-hours instead.
1. Retinol
This vitamin A derivative is universally hailed as an anti-aging superstar, thanks to its tiny molecular structure and antioxidant and exfoliating properties that help accelerate cell turnover, rebuild collagen and reduce dark spots, fine lines and creases. With enough sunscreen protection, newer formulations of retinol can be safely used during the day, but experts still advise limiting its use to nighttime especially for those who have sensitive skin.
“A well-known adverse effect associated with retinoid use is sun sensitivity, which is thought mainly to be due to a thinning of the outermost dead layer of skin cells,” explains board-certified dermatologist David Lortscher, M.D. “Retinol is extremely unstable and easily degraded to biologically inactive forms upon exposure to light and air.”
Instead, try: Beauty chemist and skin care expert David Pollock suggests looking into bakuchi (babchi) oil and myristoyl nonapedtide-3 as daytime stand-ins for retinol. “Both are gentler alternatives that have retinoic activity but without the irritation,” adds Pollock.
2. Hydroquinone
A lightening agent that delivers quick results, hydroquinone is typically relied on when looking to refine age spots, hormonally induced pigmentation or melasma and acne or pimple marks. It works by inhibiting the production of melanin, which can make skin more susceptible to sun damage.
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